December 21, 2010

In with the old, out with the new.

Looks like upcycling is the theme of the moment. In spite of Julie Gilhart's unfortunate departure from Barneys, YSL has just released its third New Vintage collection, a project originated by Julie and created from vintage fabrics in the house's archive — and from vintage inspiration: The 70s-inspired pieces will include metallic wide leg trousers, velvet tuxedo suiting jackets and leopard-print wrap dresses.

Meanwhile, Issey Miyake is launching a new eco-collection, 132 5, made from recycled PET bottle polyester created by Teijin Fabrics, and designed in zero-waste origami shapes in collaboration with a professor of origami. Each piece is foil-printed while folded flat, and unfolds elaborately to create a sculptural, pleated garment.

I was lucky enough to see it in person on my recent trip to Tokyo, at the gorgeous 21_21 design sight museum, a breathtaking underground space in Roppongi designed by Tadao Ando and curated by Mr. Miyake. Unfortunately, the official photos hardly do the collection justice, but no cameras were allowed in the exhibition.

Meanwhile, I'm back in Brooklyn working on my new collection for FW11. Though my origami skills can't match Miyake's, like YSL, I may be using some dead stock fabrics, having located a great source right here in New York. (I've been pulling from my own small vintage fabric collection for samples and one-offs, but it's harder to find large enough quantities for production.) Stay tuned for more, very soon!

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